Luxury hotels in Tokyo

Tokyo guide

Senso-ji and Asakusa: Tokyo's oldest temple at the quiet hour

The most visited sight in Tokyo is best seen before eight in the morning or after dark.

Senso-ji tops almost every list of things to do in Tokyo. Tradition dates the temple to the seventh century, which makes it the oldest in the city, and the walk from the Kaminarimon gate along Nakamise-dori to the main hall is the Tokyo many travellers picture before they arrive.

The grounds are open around the clock, while the main hall keeps shorter hours. That is the secret: at seven in the morning you share the incense and the five-storey pagoda with locals on their way to work, and after dark the buildings are lit and the shopping street is shuttered and calm.

We like to pair an early visit with a private boat on the Sumida River towards Hamarikyu Gardens, or with lunch in one of Asakusa's old tempura houses. Stay in Marunouchi or near the Imperial Palace and the temple is a short ride away.

Meiji Jingu and Harajuku

Meiji Jingu, the Shinto shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, is one of Tokyo's most cited sights: a forest of about 100,000 trees planted by volunteers, entered through giant wooden torii gates. Early morning is the quietest time, and traditional weddings often pass through on weekends.

From the shrine, Takeshita Street in Harajuku shows Tokyo's youth culture, while Omotesando, lined with zelkova trees, is a gallery of contemporary architecture by Tadao Ando, Toyo Ito and SANAA. Shibuya Crossing is one stop away.

Toyosu, Tsukiji and Tokyo's sushi

Tokyo's fish market moved from Tsukiji to Toyosu in 2018, and watching the tuna auction at dawn from the observation deck at Toyosu is one of the city's most cited experiences; the closer lower deck requires an application. Tsukiji's outer market remains a maze of stalls for breakfast sushi, tamagoyaki and knives.

Tokyo has more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other city, and a seat at an omakase sushi counter is the culinary highlight of a visit. The most celebrated counters open bookings weeks or months ahead, often only through a hotel concierge or a local card.