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Vienna, Austria

Meierei by Steirereck: Viennese dolce far niente

By Thiago Freitas · The Prime Traveler

MICHELIN Guide · 2025Bib GourmandSteirereck · Main restaurant · 20263 MICHELIN stars9thSteirereck · World’s 50 Best RestaurantsBest ranking · 2013 and 2016

The Bib Gourmand distinguishes Meierei. The three Michelin stars and the 9th place worldwide (2013 and 2016) belong to Steirereck, the main restaurant.

In the Stadtpark, an outdoor table and a breakfast bearing the Steirereck signature became one of the best memories of the trip.

There is a taste from that morning in Vienna that I still remember clearly.

It came in a glass: a creamy, flavorful sesame foam, with a soft-yolk egg, seasoned bulgur and tomatoes. The spoon went through the layers and gathered everything together. It was one of those preparations that make the conversation stop for a moment, until someone says: “You have to try this.”

We were at Meierei, in the Stadtpark, at an outdoor table facing the Wien river and the trees of the park. There were pink flowers in a small vase, coffee in the cups and orange juice. The day was beautiful, and we had time to stay.

The outdoor table at Meierei, with the view of the Wien river and the Stadtpark. Original photograph, uncropped.
The outdoor table at Meierei, with the view of the Wien river and the Stadtpark. Original photograph, uncropped.

On a trip, that combination is already worth a lot. But the food that reached the table turned that morning into an experience I would return to Vienna to repeat.

Another way to get to know Steirereck’s cooking

Meierei is the most relaxed address linked to Steirereck. The Steirereck Breakfast, which we chose that morning, brings together small preparations that take breakfast far beyond the usual.

In 2025, Steirereck im Stadtpark earned its third Michelin star and ranked 33rd at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. It is to this fine-dining address that Meierei is tied, offering a more relaxed experience by the river. Knowing about this connection added expectation to our choice, but it was the pleasure of that morning at the table that made the visit stay in memory. Michelin Guide · The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2025

I like to include experiences like this in a trip. A dinner can be the big commitment of the day, with all the expectation that brings. A table like that one, on the other hand, lets you discover a kitchen in a different mood: in daylight, looking at the park, tasting little by little.

When the dishes arrived, also set on multi-tiered stands, we took a little while before starting. There was plenty to look at. Then came the first forkfuls, the comparisons and that urge to try what was on the next plate.

The sourdough waffle

The Sourdough Waffel opened the way to flavors I did not usually associate with breakfast. On the menu we consulted, it came with pickled pumpkin, yogurt cream with pumpkin seeds and mustard leaves. The photographs of our table record a different presentation, with colorful accompaniments and green leaves.

Sourdough waffle: detail of the preparation photographed at the table.
Sourdough waffle: detail of the preparation photographed at the table.

The batter had a crisp surface and a soft interior. The interesting part was varying the proportion of the accompaniments with each forkful. A little more cream, another piece of the topping, a leaf. The waffle had enough flavor to support all of it and remained an important part of the dish.

It was a start that awakened curiosity about the rest of the meal.

The fish tartare

The Tartare of Char was described on the menu with sweet potato, crunchy buckwheat and pumpkin. Char is a fish of the salmonid family, and its delicacy came through well in this preparation.

Detail of the fish preparation, with crunchy elements and herbs, in the deep bowl.
Detail of the fish preparation, with crunchy elements and herbs, in the deep bowl.

Raw fish would not be my most obvious choice to start the day. But after tasting it, surprise gave way to the wish for another forkful.

The buckwheat added crunch to the soft texture of the fish. The sweet potato and pumpkin brought a gentle sweetness without dominating. It was a small dish that deserved to be eaten slowly, paying attention to what each ingredient added.

The sesame cream served in the glass

This was the preparation that stayed with me most.

The menu described an organic soft-boiled egg, seasoned bulgur, tomatoes and sesame foam. What remained in memory was above all that cream: light in texture, but with a very present sesame flavor.

The sesame cream served in the glass, with its layers on display.
The sesame cream served in the glass, with its layers on display.

On reaching the yolk, the spoon mixed the layers and made the bulgur even creamier. The tomatoes brought freshness, and the spices appeared between one spoonful and the next.

I do not remember trying to understand the technique at that moment. I remember liking it very much and wanting to enjoy what was still left at the bottom of the glass. Some dishes inspire admiration; this one also made you want to learn to make it at home.

The ham with horseradish

The Gammon Ham with Fresh Horseradish & Wheat Crisp featured thinly sliced ham, fresh horseradish and a crunchy wheat element.

Thin slices of ham with grated horseradish, in an individual frame.
Thin slices of ham with grated horseradish, in an individual frame.

After the creamier preparations, it was a welcome change. The ham had a delicate flavor, and the horseradish added that intensity you also feel in the nose and which passes quickly, leaving you wanting more.

With few elements, the dish found a very pleasant balance. I liked gathering a bit of everything, enjoying the contrast between the tenderness of the slices and the crunch of the wheat.

The desserts and the wish to stay

Among the menu’s offerings, the Baked Apple Tarte with Caramelized Walnuts & Praliné brings together baked apple, caramelized walnuts and praliné. The soft fruit, the pastry and the nuts form a welcoming combination, with the toasty flavor of caramel.

In the photographs of our morning, it is the small fruit tarts that appear at the top of the stands. They deserve their own record.

Fruit tartlet: a detail of the sweet ending of that morning.
Fruit tartlet: a detail of the sweet ending of that morning.

After so many savory dishes, it was time to return to coffee and prolong the conversation. The desserts were among the best parts of the meal and deserved the same care we had given to the rest.

By then, getting up from the table already seemed a decision that could wait.

What a good choice adds to the trip

When I think of that morning, I remember the food with some precision. But I also remember the white table, the flowers, the green of the park and the pleasure of being there without having to rush off to the next commitment.

The breakfast table, with the Wien river and the trees of the Stadtpark in the background.
The breakfast table, with the Wien river and the trees of the Stadtpark in the background.

Having time available gains another value when we know where to spend it.

A trip offers a limited number of mornings, lunches and dinners. The most interesting choice is not always the most obvious, and an experience like Meierei’s can end up occupying a place in memory that no initial planning could predict.

It is this view that guides The Prime Traveler’s Gastrotrip: choosing tables that make sense for each traveler and building a route around them, considering preferences, destinations, dates and the location of the hotels. The team checks each restaurant, its menus, opening days and booking periods to prepare the itinerary.

For those who also travel for the pleasure of eating well, this care begins long before the first glass or the arrival of the first dish.

That morning in Vienna, it would have a very concrete reward: time to enjoy a table I would still like to return to.

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